Cinque Terre sustainable tourism

Cinque Terre trail -PrevoSustainable tourism” seems to be on everyone’s mind, and particularly at the Cinque Terre, the words are raised at every meeting and in reports that come out of the Cinque Terre National Park. The idea being to visit a place and make a positive impact or at least a low impact on the environment and local culture ensuring the development of a positive experience for local people, tourist companies and tourists themselves.

In the age of mass tourism I have my doubts as to wether it is in the mind of most tourists when they visit, and I fear there is a conflict of interests and economical issues that hold sway and slow the process to Sustainable tourism in the Cinque Terre.

Still some slow progress is being made, a few steps forward and one step backwards. Cinque Terre Quality LabelFor hikers the new developments for 2018 include a discount voucher if they stay more than 2 days in accommodation that has a Cinque Terre Park Quality label. (Seen in foto)

The only trail that has to be paid for is the coastal trail or Blue trail between Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. From April 1st instead of the €7.50 daily fee, it will be €5.00 with a voucher . Instead of €29 for a 2 day pass – Blue trail plus train, hikers will pay €26. There will be NO DISCOUNT on the day trail and train pass which costs €16. In my humble opinion the discount demonstrates only how ‘tight’ Ligurians can be and are famous for!!

Late last year a Cinque Terre newslocal newspaper was over enthusiastic in saying the daily tree would be reduced to €1.00 with the hope that it would also include a discount on the rather scandalous Cinque Terre Express train which costs €4 for a 5 -10 min ride between villages. But it was only fake news?! Trenitalia is too mean to even offer a discount on a 1 day pass. I am at a loss for words…otherwise I may be offensive!

At this time late 2016 a new App was to limit the number of tourists, unfortunately aimed at hikers. It was to assign a ‘red light’ if there was an overload of hikers on the trail or in the next village. The news appeared in  headlines worldwide…..but the App never eventuated! I breathed a sigh of relief as while the Cinque Terre seriously needs to impose a limited number access, it’s not the hikers it needs to limit but the mass tourists who flow from the cruise ships and day trippers on Tourist crowds Vernazzacoaches. Admittedly some limit has been placed on day coach passes, requiring an advanced booking on the day but they are a drop in the ocean in comparison to the thousands of cruise passengers. A fact which had CNN recently put the Cinque Terre together with Venice on a blacklist of places to AVOID! There has been embarrassment locally but neither Regional President or the Minister of the Environment seem to recognise the need for a ‘closed number’ on tourist access. While the current (acting) President of the National Park and Mayor of Vernazza declared that a place “can die from too much tourism(Il Secolo XIX newspaper)Cinque Terre coastal trail

Still if you are coming to stay, check out the Quality Label to see if you may be entitled to a discount voucher. The Quality label is being given to enterprises that respect regulations associated with energy, water, trash, toxic substances, air and noise. So as I said, 2 steps forward and 1 step backwards as the discount is really stingy!

The second new approach is how to deal with the plastic trash problem. That is definitely not unique to the Cinque Terre, but a worldwide issue which is getting a lot of airplay at the moment. Officially, as from the Cinque Terre National park site, the Park will install machines (solar powered) at the entrance to and along the Blue trail which will squash plastic bottles and take any plastic rubbish. And tourists ‘may’ be offered a discount on products from the Park, ie the Cinque Terre Card if they make use of the deposit machines, as well as being encouraged to buy the Park’s one litre re usable flask.

In grand enthusiasm this initiative was also widely publicised in international news – ex The Telegraph headlined with “Italy bans the plastic water bottle along heritage coastline“. The article reported that the president of the Cinque Terre national park said “We are going to update the existing water fountains and install new ones: they will provide people with still or sparkling filtrated water. By the start of next Spring, we hope to have liberated ourselves from this nightmare.”   He said local shopkeepers were likely to be unhappy with a ban on selling bottled water but should realise that it would be in their long-term interests.”

The statement rings of resolution of the problem in an exceptionally short period, when I fear in reality it will be a lengthy process. As with the App proposed last year that never eventuated, it will be interesting to see if the Park can fulfil their promise. Unfortunately the same International newspapers never follow up on the promises made, and the world thinks the problem has been solved. We will see if the CNN blacklist gives the relevant authorities a shake up!

We would like to seriously see sustainable tourism in action and a limit placed on the hordes that invade during the Summer months that have little time or inclination to walk a trail, as well as a drastic improvement in the plastic rubbish (and non) amassed as a consequence. The Cinque Terre is too special to be trampled to death.

Cinque Terre trail

On that pessimistic note I encourage any of you visiting to think about being a responsible tourist, by refilling at water fountains, avoiding take-away packaging and refusing straws in your aperitifs. Small steps can make a difference in this fragile territory and I highly encourage  longer stay hikers to check out any of the possible discounts at the various Cinque Terre park offices, you deserve it!


 

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Treasures from the Unbelievable Wreck – Damien Hirst

Welcome back! I hope 2018 has begun well for you all. I start my posts this year with an exhibition from last year, but one not to be missed if it travels your way…

Damien Hirst Demon with bowlDamien Hirst had me believing in the unbelievable at his exhibition in Venice – ‘Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable’. Knowing little about the artist and virtually nothing about the exhibition beforehand made it easy for me to think I had stepped through the looking glass into Alice in Wonderland!Hermaphrodite Damien Hirst

 

 

 

 

Hirst had on display 189 sunken treasures retrieved off the seabed of the Indian Ocean, together with collections of flints, ingots and remnants of artefacts. The treasures were supposedly part of the hoard of the Apistos, a ship of a freed slave turned art collector, that apparently sank back in the first or second century AD and was rediscovered in 2008.

Mixed reactions from the art world described the exhibition as ‘An Unbelievable Journey to the Depths of Bling‘, ‘One Man’s Trash is Damien Hirst’s Treasure’ , as ‘once you’re in the joke it grows stale very quickly’! I think I cruised the entire time in awe,  believing every word and stunned at every work presented. It was fabulous!

Just getting past the gigantic 18m+ Demon with a Bowl in the courtyard of Palazzo Grassi was a feat, and at each of the 3 floors of exhibits above he could be admired from every angle. Absolutely incredible, convincingly bronze, yet only painted resin, and assembled in stages as I found out later. From the Demon I became engrossed in the videos where a team of scuba divers worked hard to strap up the treasures found on the sea bed bringing them to safety above…..from the most delicate ancient jewellery to the monstrous sun disc and calendar stone together with Mickey Mouse and Goofy covered in barnacles and seaweed! What’s going on??

In fact the exhibition presents like an archaeological museum with various collections of coins, rare jewellery, precious minerals, weapons, and helmets alongside ‘recovered’ treasures, ‘restored’ treasures and ‘copies’ of treasures……

Bust of the collector Damien Hirstand the Collector himself, Damien Hirst.

The sheer scale of the exhibits and relative authenticity, especially at the Punta della Dogana, continued to impress, even if I was I being taken for a ride, or on a journey in a time machine. Whatever, I was enjoying the unexpected, the audacity, the joke.  As my friend said “you may not like the Art work but whatever it is it must be done well” and these treasures were certainly done well.The Diver

 

 

 

Hirst Warrior and the Bear

 

 

 

 

 

 

As the legend goes ‘the slave accumulated an immense fortune on the acquisition of his freedom. Bloated with excess wealth, he proceeded to build a lavish collection of artefacts…..commissions, copies, fakes, purchases and plunder, which lay submerged for some two thousand years.’Calendar stone and Warrior and the Bear

Damien Hirst when asked is it Myth or Fact replied “whatever you choose to believe!”

 

Still stunned by what we had seen we left the exhibition, passed through the ‘looking glass’ out to the real wonders of Venice…..Venice Punto della Dogana

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